Updated: 26 Oct 2025

By following my principles outlined in this article, will help you nail sharp, dynamic bird shots.

Camera Mode and Exposure Settings
Mode: Use Manual (M) or Shutter Priority (Tv / S) mode
Manual mode gives you full control (ideal once you’re comfortable)
Shutter priority lets you lock in a fast shutter while the camera adjusts aperture automatically
Recommended Camera Settings
Shutter Speed 1/2000s – 1/4000s Freezes wings and motion in flight. Go faster for small, quick birds
Aperture (f-stop) f/5.6 – f/8 Balances sharpness and depth of field; ensures bird is fully in focus
ISO 400–1600 (Auto ISO if possible) Keeps exposure balanced; increase if light is low. Modern sensors handle higher ISO well. I always use Auto ISO
Focus Mode Continuous AF (AI Servo / AF-C) Tracks moving subjects
AF Area Mode Zone / Dynamic / Tracking lets the camera follow unpredictable movement
Drive Mode High-Speed Continuous Captures bursts for best wing position
Metering Mode Evaluative / Matrix Good general-purpose metering. Use Exposure Compensation (+0.3 to +1.0) if bird is against bright sky
Lens and Focal Length
300–600mm lenses are ideal for BIF
If using a zoom (100–400mm, 200–500mm), start zoomed out to locate the bird, then zoom in
Use image stabilisation (IS/VR/OSS) when possible — especially if panning
️ Technique Tips
Track the bird early: Spot it in your viewfinder before it flies close — use both eyes open if possible
Do NOT use a tripod. Always hand held
Smooth panning: Follow the bird’s motion; match speed to minimise blur
Pre-focus: If birds take off from a perch, pre-focus on that area
Use back-button focus: Decouples AF from the shutter, giving smoother tracking control
Keep space in frame: Leave room in front of the bird for direction of flight — it feels more dynamic
Bird’s eyes – Keep the bird’s eyes in focus as much as possible
Lighting and Timing
Golden hours (early morning / late afternoon) give soft light and warm tones.
Avoid harsh midday light unless the sky is interesting.
Position yourself with the sun behind you for better light on the bird’s face and wings.

Example Starting Point Settings
Bright daylight 1/3200s f/7.1 400 Perfect for gulls, terns, hawks
Overcast 1/2500s f/5.6 800–1600 Keeps exposure without blur
Early morning 1/2000s f/5.6 1600–3200 Use noise reduction in post
Large birds (eagles, herons) 1/1600s f/8 400 Slower shutter often fine
Small fast birds (swallows) 1/4000s f/5.6 800 Very fast wings require it
Post-Processing
Crop strategically: Maintain space ahead of the bird’s direction
Adjust shadows/highlights: Bring out feather details and avoid silhouetting
Sharpen selectively: Apply sharpening to the bird, not the background
Gear and Settings Optimisation
Lens: 300–600mm (prime or zoom) is ideal
Stabilisation: Enable IS/VR/OSS for panning (Mode 2 on Canon/Nikon lenses)
Grip: Keep elbows tucked; brace yourself for stability
Post-Processing
Crop for composition — give space in the direction of flight
Lift shadows — reveals feather details under wings
Sharpen carefully — emphasize edges of the bird, not background noise
Reduce noise if ISO is high (Topaz Denoise or Lightroom Noise Reduction)
Quick Checklist Before You Shoot
Continuous AF (AF-C / AI Servo)
Shutter 1/2000s or faster
Aperture f/5.6–f/8
Auto ISO up to 1600
Burst mode on
Stabilisation Mode 2 for panning
Lens hood attached (for contrast)
Sun behind you
I hope that this article has helped your understanding of how to photograph birds in flight. By following the instructions, you will greatly improve your nature photography. Remember, lots of practice makes perfect!!

Linked Pages: About Mark Brion | Professional Natural World Photographer